Border County Kitchens

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Installation Manual 

Most units are delivered assembled. Sometimes larger units such as larders or appliance housings need to be assembled using Supa-Joina screws as required. Fix backs with screws or small barbed nails. Ensure cabinets are square and not twisted before fitting backs.

Tap legs into the fixing blocks on the bottom of each base unit. Fit feet to the front legs only.

The top surface of the worktop is normally 900mm off the floor.

For 30mm worktops set the top of the first base unit to be level in all directions and 870 off the floor.
For 40mm worktops set the top of the base unit to 860 off the floor.

Adjust by turning the feet by hand.

Set base units in position with 18mm spacers between each unit. These spacers protrude in front of the base unit carcass by 20mm, and are fixed with 30mm screws, usually in line with the centre of the hinges, if the cabinet has doors.

The screws will be hidden by the hinges when the doors are installed. (see inset)

End panels and scribe ends (left) are fitted later in a similar way. End panels require six screws.

It is usually best to place the Mondo or other corner units in position first. Click Here for New Mondo Installation Supplement



Ensure that as you level the units that the height of the underside of the worktop above the actual floor level will allow for the installation of your chosen appliances. If not raise all the base units.

Fix 60 x 18 MDF or 2x1 pine batten to the wall at the height of the top of the units.(optional, depending on worksurface etc.)

The front of each unit should be 570mm from the wall, with the front of the spacers and end panels 590 mm from the wall. Of course each run of units must be in a straight line, and not follow a curved or uneven wall. In such a case set the line of the fronts of the units in the most appropriate position.


Fix the base units to the battens or the wall using brackets made from “Furband” perforated galvanised strip. NEW METHOD see below

Ends are scribed to floor and wall as required and fixed to the adjacent cabinet with screws from the inside. Fix with front of end protruding 20mm from the front of the carcase.


To fix base units to the walls, or to the wall battens (if fitted), we now generally use pieces of MDF 60 by 18mm, about 200mm long (fixing battens). These are initially fixed to the cabinets flush to the top of the sides with clamps, and permanently fixed with screws once all adjustments have been made and the cabinets are in their final position, level plumb and square.

Fixing battens are fitted to the walls or wall battens with slotted angle brackets. The slots in the brackets can be used to allow final adjustment. End panels can be used to fix the units in the same manner.

Further details of fixing the base units are shown in the drawing below.


Stand tall units in position and level/plumb with the lowest part of the carcase level with the adjacent base unit. Fix to wall with suitable brackets or slotted angle brackets and fixing battens.


18mm spacers are also fitted between each wall unit, again protruding 20mm from the front of each carcase. End panels also protrude 20mm and are scribed to the wall and fitted after the units are aligned.

If the sides of open units are 18mm thick (plate racks, open shelves, or open corner shelves, as shown left) then these sides replace the 18mm uprights between the open unit and adjacent units with doors.


Level and fix 60x18mm battens on the wall at a height that will bring the top of the wall units level with the top of any tall units. If there are no tall units the height of the wall batten is shown of the height drawing supplied.

Fix/ level/ plumb the wall units while resting on the battens, using corner brackets.These must be screwed to the cabinets with four screws to ensure no load is taken by the 6mm back of the unit. Alternatively..

If there is room between the wall cabinets and the ceiling you may fix the top of the cabinets with large angle brackets screwed to the wall and the tops of the cabinets. These will not usually be seen.

It may be necessary to wedge out the top or the bottom of a cabinet to allow it to hang plumb and in line with adjacent cabinets.

Fit cornice with screws from above if possible. Mitre and fit to protrude 20mm from the front of the spacers and end panels, ie 40mm from the front of the carcase.
Fit hinge plates to carcases, with system screws supplied (large threads in predrilled 5mm holes). Fix hinges to doors with no 6 by 5/8 inch screws. Corner cabinets may require different hinges (supplied).
To fit the door fit the jaws of the hinge onto the pins of the base plate, then push the back part towards the carcase side and ....

CLICK! The hinge clip clicks forward. Repeat with other hinges. (The door can be removed by pressing the clip back) You can practice attaching the hinge to the base plate before you attach the hinge to the door!

Fit clear buffers to the top and bottom of the closing edges of the doors. Adjust the doors as required to be inline, level and square using the various adjustment screws.

TIP! Adjust the vertical gap adjustment screw of each hinge until its head is flush with the main body of the hinge before you clip the door onto the frame for the first time. This will stop the door fouling on the dividers or the adjacent door.

Drawers may also need adjustment and in any case they require additional screws to fix them to the carcase. We always find it best to do the final adjustment of drawers after installation.

The gap between the top drawer font and the underside of the worktop should be 4mm, and between drawer fronts around 2mm. They should line up with adjacent doors and drawers and have an even gap each side. Adjust as shown clearly(?) in the drawing to the left!

Or, in english, to move a drawer front side to side slacken woodscrews A, move and retighten. To adjust a gap or a tilted drawer slacken clamp screw B, jack up or down using screw C, then retighten B. Easy!

Sometimes a drawer is tilted, the top drawer here is tilted back.


Remove the drawer(s).

So the top of the drawer needs to go forward, if the drawer runner is fixed with screw 1 then the rear of the drawer runner needs to rise. Therefore drill a pilot hole for a no6 by 5/8 screw at the top of slotted hole 2 and fit screw. Remove system screw 3 (discard) and adjust runner up, tighten screw in hole 2. Do the same the other side as required, then test fit drawer. Re-adjust as required.

Once you are satisfied with the adjustment of all the drawers pilot drill and fit No6 by 5/8 inch screws in each of the smaller holes in the runner, including the one above the front roller. Tighten carefully.


Note that well adjusted doors and drawer fronts are very important for a kitchen to look just right!

Please email us with queries.  


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